Please help. Sub install

[Matth1000]

Good morning.

I'm looking to upgrade the subwoofer in my 24 Z and am considering the Kenwood Spare Tyre Sub to replace the stock Bose unit.

For those who have made this upgrade, could you please advise on which wires to use from the old sub connection to connect to the amp of the new Kenwood sub? I'm confident with running the power cable from the battery (fused) to the back, and I've already disabled the ANC and ASE.

Any assistance, especially with pictures, would be greatly appreciated.



Thanks.
Matt.

 

[Who.Am.Eye.2716]

https://www.nissanzclub.com/forum/threads/factory-audio-system-questions.2432/

 

[Matth1000]

Lots of info but not what I'm after. I need to know what the 4 wires that feed the existing sub are. I assume 2 are negative and 2 are positive and I probably only need 1 set of them to feed to the new amp but I want to make sure before I go sticking unknown wires into things. The diagram shows these 4 wires but doesn't mention colour or what they are.

 

[Matth1000]

Anyway, I took a chance, and it all worked out perfectly. I used an 8-gauge fused wire from the battery to the boot, threading it through the grommet located right behind the battery (see the third picture). My battery is on the left side of the car since I'm in Australia—I'm not sure if lefthand drive cars have this grommet. I connected the high-level inputs from the Bose sub to the new sub. The entire process took 2.5 hours, including putting away all the tools and reassembling the car.

The sound is amazing at any volume, especially between 10 and 20, which is where I usually have it. The Bose unit had very little bass unless it was played loud, but this new setup has bass at any volume—mirror-shaking, clothes moving bass.

I couldn't be happier.

Here’s the video link if you want to follow along. Part 2 will be coming out next week.

 

[staying_tuned]

Thanks for posting, I’ve got a Kicker HS10 in my F150. It was a near pnp install with great results and was hoping I could replicate it in the Z.

 

[splatrd]

Nice work Matthew. Did you have ANC and ASE turned off prior to doing this? I tried this on a Mustang with ANC and had to disconnect the microphones to avoid sub being part of the ANC feedback loop. It was fine with motor off, but with it on the sub went nuts.

 

[Matth1000]

Yes I had them both turned off a couple months back in hopes that by doing that, it would improve the sound of the stereo, it didn't. I think it made it sound worse.

 

[ulehhh]

Is running the 12v cable necessary? Is it possible to tap 12v from the factory Bose sub?

 

[splatrd]

Is running the 12v cable necessary? Is it possible to tap 12v from the factory Bose sub?

I would play it safe and run dedicated power source. Modern cars with Canbus power distribution systems tend to be very sensitive to loads beyond what they are set up for. In a lot of cases, it will shut down a circuit that is drawing more than intended. Not sure how Nissan does theirs, but I know US makes will do this.

 

[Pumxee]

Yes I had them both turned off a couple months back in hopes that by doing that, it would improve the sound of the stereo, it didn't. I think it made it sound worse.

Did turning off the ANC or ASE make the system sound better or worse? I feel like my Sub doesn't kick in properly unless I have the windows open. WOndering if disabling ANC is the way to go

 

[Matth1000]

Did turning off the ANC or ASE make the system sound better or worse? I feel like my Sub doesn't kick in properly unless I have the windows open. WOndering if disabling ANC is the way to go

I didn't notice a difference.