Why shouldn't I daily a 0w30 oil?

BigBlue

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Just be careful with products that say stuff like “compatible with API SP” but then it has no API starburst symbol showing it passed and was certified with API. This is if you care about your warranty.

I love Redline. Not the API stuff for warranties, but the original Group V stuff originally designed for turbines. However, I don’t use it on cars with a warranty.

Just look for the starburst API symbol if you’re worried about your warranty. It’s required if it comes down to documenting your oil changes were correct.
Good Advice. Even though the oil I recommend does not show an API rating, it in fact exceeds all of said ratings. For documenting purposes you can refer to this on the M1 site for this oil's specs.
 

Bumflik

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My Oil pressure at idle was too low using 0w-20 so I'm going with 5W-20 and once the temperature avg is 85+ , 5w-30.
 

Bumflik

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Now after the switch to 5W-30 . At idle my oil pressure is at lowest 23psi. Much better than 16-17psi with 0w-20. I will stay with 5W and use 20 for winter and 30 for summer going forward.
 

BigBlue

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Now after the switch to 5W-30 . At idle my oil pressure is at lowest 23psi. Much better than 16-17psi with 0w-20. I will stay with 5W and use 20 for winter and 30 for summer going forward.
A 5-30 is good down to -20F.
 

kevinbonds

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So, is the consensus that in hot climates that running a 5W-30 or 5W-40 is the way to go? I am in south Florida and never see temps below 40 or 50 degrees.
 
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dogunbound

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Been using M1 0-30 AFE in all my cars. Did a oil sample on the Z with 6k on the oil. First, keep in mind this oil intentionally shears down to a 20wt. The report showed it at the minimal number for a 20wt. That's fine for my other cars that are NA. Now I'm running the M1 5-30EP with no reportable difference in MPG.
Where did you find this information that the mobile 1 stuff shears down to a 20wt?
 
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dogunbound

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BigBlue

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Gentlemen, Just keeping it real. Empirical data ie UOA report shows it shearing out of the minimum 8.8 to 8.2 in reference to the CST Viscosity @ 100C for a 30wt. Otherwise, it ain't a 30wt anymore when it gets some time on it. To keep things even steven, that report only showed 1% fuel dilution. Any time they see fuel dilution to the right side of the decimal they round up to 1%. I've been running the AFE stuff for decades and still do in my NA cars. If your the kind of guy that spends more time in the right lane than you do in the left your fine to run a 0-20 or the 0-30AFE. Once I get a couple of OCI to rule out cross contamination I'll send off the M1 5-30 EP. I can already tell you it'll come back GTG. I ran that stuff in my blower car at 15psi with A/W/I @ 30% Methanol activated @ 7psi. The UOA reports were within specs. If you track your car or lean on it hard, run a 40wt.
 

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Appreciate your insight
 

VR30Infection

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I was told to run 5w40 by a reputable tuner that I trust. I used it in my Q50 VR30 Tuned and I’m using it in the Z I’ve had no issues at all. I live I central CA where it gets hot and doesn’t really get that cold so I run it year round. Again. Zero issues. These engines tend to run on the hot side of the scale.
 

BigBlue

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I was told to run 5w40 by a reputable tuner that I trust. I used it in my Q50 VR30 Tuned and I’m using it in the Z I’ve had no issues at all. I live I central CA where it gets hot and doesn’t really get that cold so I run it year round. Again. Zero issues. These engines tend to run on the hot side of the scale.
I'll stand corrected but due to the 91 fuel it has to pull more timing which makes any engine run hotter. With 93 fuel the only time I see elevated temps is under hard multiple pulls.
 

VR30Infection

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I’m speaking of when you run it hard. Especially after a tune pushing more boost.
 
 






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